Monthly Works June
This post was written in June 2022.
It's the last day of June, marking the mid-point of the year. The weather is increasingly humid, making each day feel suffocating. However, such damp and overcast weather only makes the days with bright sunshine feel even more precious. Expressing gratitude to the clients who have visited us consistently, let's introduce the completed garments of June.
HARDY MINNIS
FRESCO 2py
280gms
wool
Mid-Grey Suit
As the climate continues to change, fabrics suitable for the season seem to be gaining favor. Especially in the spring and summer seasons, Hardy Minnis's Fresco collection is particularly beloved. The Fresco fabric is divided into five main sections: Fresco Light, 2ply, 3ply, Mohair, and Mock Leno, offering a variety of textures and colors from suiting to jacketing. Recognized for its stiffness, durability, and breathability, it's deemed ideal for business suits. It's expected to continue to be a favored fabric until July.
DRAPERS
SURSONIC
270gms
wool 100%
Brownish-Grey Striped Suit
After a while, we have news of a new bunch, along with the April promotion of Drapers' Super Sonic collection. It's a fabric that is similar yet distinct from Fresco. While it shares the outstanding breathability due to its loose weave, it has less stiffness. Instead, it offers a softer feel and a sense of tension in the fabric.
The color and pattern combination of this fabric is also worth noting. Generally, navy or grey stripes are the common choices for striped patterns. However, this stripe pattern with a mix of brown and grey offers a different vibe ? more elegant and vintage, setting it apart from the typical navy and grey stripes.
SOLBIATI
TIME OFF
250gms
- lenen 55% wool 37% silk 8%
Vandyke Brown Linen Jacket
We have a client who has been working with Vanni for over ten years. They said, "I want to wear something this summer that's cool, comfortable, and can match any pants or inner wear." When presented with this mission, I did ponder for a moment. A cool fabric in my mind... a fabric with a comfortable feel... a fabric that could match any color combination... The conclusion was a fabric blended with linen, in a muted color tone, and with a tangible weave texture. The result is the jacket from Solbiati above.
In my opinion, linen is not inherently a 'cool' fabric. It appears cool and offers a psychological comfort when worn. That's why it's a fabric that can be easily mistaken for being cool. It allows you to care less about wrinkles and even consider those wrinkles as a part of its charm. This psychological comfort might be why it feels cooler on hot days.
DUGDALE BRO & CO
LAGAN VALLEY
340gms
lenen 100%
Olive Green Linen Double Jacket
The Lagan Valley fabric from dugdale is a newly arrived bunch. I believe it perfectly reflects the essence of linen. The soft touch, the flexible fabric texture, and the slightly faded color palette seem to encapsulate the characteristics of linen well. If chosen wisely, a double jacket can feel more casual than a single jacket, thanks to the material.
BAIRD MCNUTT
GLENARIFF
270gms
linen 100%
Brown Irish Linen Suit
The Glenariff collection from Baird McNutt is an Irish linen collection. As the name suggests, Irish linen is produced in Ireland and is a fabric woven from flax fibers. It has a much stiffer feel than other linen fabrics, making it suitable for linen suits. The jacket's interior is minimized to accentuate the fabric's characteristics, and the lining is in khaki, subtly complementing the brown for a harmonious combination.
SPENCE BRYSON (VINTAGE FARIC)
linen 100%
Blue Linen Jacket
There's much to see in a tailor shop. Antique-style furniture, unique objects on display, a tailor sketching patterns, garments hanging in the closet, numerous bunch books from various fabric houses, and the sight of fabrics rolled up on the horse...
Exploring the variety of fabrics in a bunch book is fun, but the fabrics available at a tailor shop have their own unique appeal. Fabrics that were available in the past but can't be ordered now are tagged as 'vintage', adding a value of rarity to them. These vintage fabrics seem to share a similar vibe with bespoke suits. They embody the idea of 'creating a unique garment that only I can wear, with my own pattern.' I believe this meaning is somewhat inherent in vintage fabrics as well.
So, take a close look at the fabrics in the shop.
LORO PIANA
AUSTRALIS JACKETS
270GMS
SUPER 150'S WOOL 100%
Light Beige Gun Club Check Jacket
There's a saying, 'Classics are eternal.' This phrase often comes to mind when I see this jacket. The color combination and the unique atmosphere of the Gun Club Check pattern seem to exude pure classicism. With the advancement of fabric weaving technology at various mills, a wide range of elaborate patterns are being developed. While I'm favorable towards this technological progress, I find myself instinctively drawn to these old-fashioned (?) patterns.
Loro Piana's jacketing is woven from 150s yarn. Among jacket fabrics, 150s yarn fabrics are quite rare. With its unique soft texture and dense weave, it's a fabric that inevitably makes you exclaim its luxury.
DUGDALE BRO & CO
NEW FINE
300gms
wool 100%
Ivory Double Jacket
Dugdale's New Fine collection is well-known for suiting fabrics. However, the fabric itself is woven in a plain weave with a matte texture, making it suitable for a standalone jacket. It's a recommended fabric for those who don't prefer linen or worsted wool textures in their jacket fabrics.
We will continue to bring you various works every month.
by eg0n