Monthly Works March
This post was written in March 2023.
It's been three years. Three years since we've been freed from masks. Initially, wearing a mask felt uncomfortable and strange, but over time, we became accustomed to it. Now, the concept of 'mask-free' feels somewhat more alien. Nevertheless, it's a relief to be able to feel the spring breeze on our faces and converse face-to-face with many people once again. With the weather warming up, this month's creations are infused with a sense of freshness. Let me introduce the completed garments for March.
HOLLAND & SHERRY
- classic worsteds
- 400gms
- wool 100%
Dark Brown Sharkskin Suit
This dark brown sharkskin suit, crafted from Holland & Sherry's Classic Worsted collection, showcases a beautiful color that manifests with the dusk. True to the Classic Worsted title, the fabric has the collection's signature specifications and composition. Despite being a heavyweight fabric at 400gms, its luster and texture exude a certain fluidity and flexibility rather than a rough feel.
This particular dark brown sharkskin suit was tailored in the Londinium line. As you can see from the photo, it's crafted with a different silhouette compared to previous works. To create a firm chest volume, an additional layer of canvas was added internally. The high waistline and the accentuated waist add to the garment's structure, achieving a balance between straight and curved lines. The result is a suit with a robust, masculine silhouette.
FOX BROTHERS & CO
- worsted checks
- 210gms
- super 120's wool 100%
Brown Check Jacket
Some people start preparing their wardrobe from the depth of winter, anticipating spring. This has enabled me to get my hands on fabrics that are no longer orderable. The brown check jacket I'm about to introduce is made from Fox Brothers' worsted check collection, suitable for spring and autumn. Unfortunately, this jacket comes with a bit of regret. The fabric used for this jacket is no longer in production, and this jacket was made from one of the last remaining pieces of this fabric. Hence, this is not just a jacket but a garment with added value. The significance is further enriched by the story of the customer who commissioned this jacket. They initially had a bespoke suit made from the same fabric at another tailor. However, over time, as their body and preferences changed, they stopped wearing that jacket. So, they commissioned us to create a new one with the last piece of this fabric. This jacket, laden with many stories, is undoubtedly meaningful, especially to its owner.
ARISTON NAPOLI
- blazers & jackets
- 320gms
- wool 29% cotton 38% linen 33%
Ivory Check Jacket
This jacket is made from a fabric by Ariston Napoli, a fabric house symbolic of Neapolitan tradition, and is part of their S/S season jacketing collection. The jacket embodies the arrival of spring. Ariston Napoli is known for weaving fabrics with vivid colors and unique patterns, blending various materials to create unique textures.
This jacket, blending wool, cotton, and linen, exudes a unique texture. The check pattern, with its contrasting colors, makes a bold statement. Pairing it with a linen shirt or summer knitwear, along with denim or linen trousers, would result in a refreshing, casual look with a polished style.
BRISBANE MOSS
- tennyson & bronte
- 255gms
- cotton 97% elastane 3%
Cream Cotton Suit
In a tailor shop, you'll find numerous fabric bunch books, each brimming with fascinating stories and illustrating how the same raw materials can yield a diverse array of textures and flavors depending on their treatment. This cotton suit is crafted from a fabric that offers a distinct and novel feel.
The typical perception of cotton is a crisp, somewhat stiff texture. However, the cotton used in this suit, produced by Brisbane Moss, feels soft yet robust, similar to the texture we associate with moleskin. This texture lends the fabric a cozy and warm impression. A cream-colored cotton suit is versatile, as both the jacket and trousers can be used as standalone pieces. I recommend considering a cotton suit for this S/S season to diversify your wardrobe.
H.LESSER & SONS
- LIGHTWEIGHT FINE WORSTED SUITINGS 11/12oz
- 350gms
- wool 100%
Dark Navy Suit & Charcoal Gray Suit
The completed garments from the promotion we started in early February, using H. Lesser's fabrics, are now coming in. I'm grateful for the overwhelming response and orders we've received. Due to the keen interest, I've prepared some information for those curious about the results. The promotion is currently for dark navy and charcoal gray colors. For more details on the promotion, please refer to the previous posting link.
Lately, instead of the tuxedo style of formal wear, styling with white or ivory silk ties offers a clean and understated look. The color and texture of H. Lesser's fabric make this simpler styling more harmonious than a tuxedo style.
We conducted a shoot as soon as the first completed garments from this promotion were ready. If I were to give feedback on the finished garments, I would focus on two aspects:
First, regarding color: H. Lesser's dark navy is a bit lighter compared to other brands, but its depth of color makes it appear not as bright. This is essentially about how much light the fabric reflects or absorbs. Most fabrics appear a tone lighter in the bunch book due to the sheen from light reflection. However, H. Lesser's fabric seems to absorb rather than reflect light, making it appear darker. Their charcoal gray is also darker than other brands', making it an excellent choice for those seeking a black-adjacent charcoal gray.
Second, concerning weight and texture: The fabric, at 350gms, is heavy for a spring/autumn suit but feels flexible, soft, and capable of forming a sleek silhouette. It's different from the fluid nature of Italian fabrics, offering a distinct texture and feel. H. Lesser's fabric has its unique charm, inviting many to experience it.
DUGDALE BROS & CO
- invincible
- 500gms
- wool 100%
Yellowish Brown Balmacaan Coat
Wouldn't it be convenient if there were something to objectively define which colors best suit one's appearance? Such a tool could facilitate easier decisions when dressing or choosing fabrics. However, while helpful, it might lead to mundane choices. Dressing is an act driven more by personal preference than objective indicators, meaning clothing that strongly reflects one's individuality tends to resonate more.
The Balmacaan coat above is a bespoke piece tailored to fit very personal preferences. Made from Dugdale's Invisible collection, it presents a different cut from the currently trendy Balmacaan coats. It's not oversized but fits comfortably, and its length is neither a long coat nor too short, just brushing the knee line. The robe-like form and the yoke on the back are details based on classic trench coats. Despite its bold color, it doesn't look out of place, likely due to the confidence of the wearer.
by egon