Monthly Works April
This post was written in April 2023.
It seems like an apt time for a wardrobe transition. The heavy coats are stored away, paving the way for well-pressed shirts, trousers, and jackets perfect for this weather. This month particularly saw a surge in suit requests, possibly because the trend leans towards simplification in clothing. This inclination towards minimalism isn't confined to fashion but is prevalent in lifestyles and interiors as well. This trend is somewhat at odds with the classic suits we craft, making them appear as a niche genre. Yet, paradoxically, no clear alternative to suits in men's fashion comes to mind, reinforcing the suit's status as an indispensable and pinnacle garment. Despite the ebb and flow of demand due to trends, I believe suits will remain cherished until a formidable alternative emerges.
FOX BROTHERS & CO
- FOX CITY
- 290gms
- wool 100%
Charcoal Gray Suit
This charcoal gray suit is crafted from Fox Brothers' Fox City collection. As you can see from the image, it's styled as formal wear, perhaps because April saw a notable number of clients opting for wedding suits. Usually, I recommend dark navy or charcoal gray for formal attire (these two colors are also top choices for business suits) because they are the most contemporary colors, offering exceptional versatility for future use.
This year, there seemed to be a particular preference for charcoal gray. The color exudes a serene and mature aura, possibly reflecting a desire to project a mature and masculine image. If you're aiming to manifest depth in your self-presentation, charcoal gray is arguably unrivaled.
DORMEUIL
- ROYAL 11
- 330gms
- wool 100%
Charcoal Gray Herringbone Suit
Following the solid charcoal gray suit, the second charcoal gray variant to consider is the pattern variation. A single color can house various patterns, with herringbone (a twill weave) being one of the most accessible patterns. The herringbone pattern, reminiscent of the spine of a herring fish, is a symmetrical pattern woven at regular intervals. It offers a break from the monotony of solid suit fabrics without being too bold, and its vertical orientation tends to elongate the wearer's appearance, offering a visually stretching effect.
HARRISONS
- OYSTER
- 400gms
- wool 100%
Charcoal Gray Stripe Suit
Now it might be time to be a bit bolder. We've explored the charcoal gray suit in solid and herringbone patterns. The third option is a charcoal gray suit with stripes. Among various patterns, stripes are perhaps the boldest and most divisive. There are primarily two types of stripes in suit fabrics: chalk stripe and pinstripe. Chalk stripes are thick and faint, resembling chalk lines, while pinstripes are like a series of thin, connected dots. The difference may be subtle, but it's distinctly evident in the garment. Furthermore, the atmosphere conveyed by a striped pattern can vary dramatically based on the spacing and thickness of the stripes. For those new to stripe patterns, I recommend avoiding stark white lines in the stripes and suggest patterns within the 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch spacing range.
FOX BROTHERS & CO
- FOX AIR
- 280gms
- wool 100%
Walnut Hairline (HAIRLINE) Suit
Once you've got the basics down, it's worth venturing into suits of different colors. This suit is from Fox Brothers' Fox Air collection in a walnut hairline pattern. The term 'hairline' might sound peculiar. It refers to a fabric pattern or weaving technique. It's a plain weave fabric, arranged by alternating threads of dark and light colors, creating fine stripes. It may resemble the sharkskin pattern but is entirely different in weave. The hairline pattern is a plain weave with alternating colored threads, while sharkskin is a twill weave where different colored threads cross each other. The subtle difference between the two weaves adds an intriguing layer to understanding fabrics.
The Fox Air collection boasts a 2-ply plain weave, offering robust durability and a dry feel. It also allows air circulation due to the space between the yarns, making it ideal for warmer days, allowing the body heat to dissipate and sweat to dry quickly, preventing the fabric from clinging to the body. It seems like the optimal fabric for humid summer days.
FOX BROTHERS & CO
- FOX CITY
- 290gms
- wool 100%
Airforce Blue Suit
The 'subtle allure of color' was the first impression. Although the fabric seemed charming, it was hard to envision it as a suit. Despite its bold color, it felt like it wouldn't be tiresome, prompting me to take a daring step in crafting this suit. Yes, it's a suit I made for myself, and I must say, the result was gratifying. The craftsmanship and the ambiance created by the color were deeply satisfying.
The color, reminiscent of the clear sky and deep blue sea, harmoniously blends with the urban greys. It's a distinct color with low saturation, and the unique weave of various colored yarns gives it a settled feel. Fox Brothers' Fox City collection is known for its vibrant colors, making it a visually delightful collection. Moreover, the rich colors are inspired by nature - the dense forest, stones, rich soil, clear skies, blue seas, and sunsets.
HOLLAND & SHERRY
- ASCOT CLASSICS
- 280gms
- wool 100%
Sand (Sand) Check Jacket
This sand check jacket is from Holland & Sherry's Ascot Classic collection. While there's no shortage of jacket fabrics for summer or winter, those suitable for the ambiguous seasons of spring and autumn are rare, making such fabrics precious. Especially, worsted wool jacket fabrics are even more valuable.
The jacket from the Ascot Classic collection is made of fabric that's light enough to be casually draped over the shoulders, offering a dense yet smooth texture. The sand color, paired with checks of a similar tone, seems to offer a comforting and cozy impression.
This April's Monthly Creation outlined the process of building a wardrobe. Starting from solid suits in dark, calm tones, progressing through various patterns, exploring color variations, and extending beyond suits to casual jackets... When planning a wardrobe, adhering to a conventional framework while establishing your benchmarks can lead to a rich and complete collection.
by egon